STAR ISLAND, N.H. – The balcony of the Oceanic Hotel still feels like “the most refreshing and comfortable place in the world.”
In the mid-1800s, author Nathaniel Hawthorne wrote this description in a letter to a friend while visiting New Hampshire’s sister islands in the Isles of Shoals.
But the view of the nine islands, the Atlantic Ocean, and the New Hampshire and Maine coastlines from a rocking chair on the hotel’s balcony fits Hawthorne’s observations well.
A ferry ride aboard the ship M/V Thomas Leighton departed from Portsmouth, New Hampshire, and took us to Star Island, a place filled with history and natural beauty.
Local legend has it that when Europeans first arrived on the island, the surrounding waters were so full of giant cod that sailors could walk to the mainland on the backs of the fish. In the late 1800s, nearby Appledore Island became a hub for writers and artists hosted by popular poet Celia Thaxter. Hawthorne, John Greenleaf Whittier, and Oliver Wendell Holmes were among the many visitors.
A few years later, the Oceanic Hotel, designed in the style of New England grand hotels, opened as a party haven for the wealthy. Today, the hotel is the centerpiece of the island’s 34-building community, which includes a stone chapel, a historical museum, an observation deck, and the Tutke Monument, a 46-foot-tall obelisk. Visitors, whether overnight or day-trippers, enjoy relaxing on the beach, strolling through wildflower meadows, and kayaking to nearby islands.
Old-fashioned beach atmosphere
New Hampshire surprises with its many beautiful places. Visitors prefer island communities such as picturesque New Castle, east of Portsmouth. Rye has some of the best seafood restaurants, surf shops, boardwalks, and easy access to the beach. Atlantic Grill serves traditional coastal cuisine in a patio garden and sea-foam interior. Perfectly cooked lobster, crab, shrimp and fish served with flavorful sauces and side dishes.
Odione Point State Park is an emerald gem along the state’s 29 miles of coastline, with a rocky shoreline with sandy beaches, salt marshes, tidal pools, and views of four lighthouses. A 3-mile loop trail winding through forested areas. A coastal science center for children encourages interaction with nature through touch tanks and exhibits.
Hampton Beach State Park is a long, wide strip of yellow sand that provides beach access to everyone. People leave early, carrying umbrellas and coolers, to spend time in the sun and surf. Hotels, restaurants, shops, and entertainment venues cater to beachgoers’ needs just across Ocean Boulevard.
Portsmouth is the highlight of the coastline. Downtown retains its lovely historic feel, but is a mix of past and present. Small shops and restaurants line the narrow streets in 19th-century red brick buildings. We discovered Cava, a Spanish-style tapas and wine bar tucked away in an alley. I chose grilled Iberian pork and chicken paella.
Portsmouth’s history is revealed at Strawberry Bank Museum. English colonists founded the colony in 1623. However, Native Americans have been hunting and fishing in this protected cove for thousands of years. The current 10-acre village site is home to 37 restored buildings. For many years, this predominantly working-class neighborhood was known as Puddledock.
Right next to the museum is Prescott Park, which buffers the Piscataqua River. The 10-acre park’s brick walkways wind past blooming flowerbeds surrounding the centerpiece fountain. Crossing the bridge will lead you to Perth Island. Perth Island is a grassy area with playgrounds, walking trails, and views of the US Naval Shipyard, which was established in 1800.
Restoration work has transformed a brick church building in the heart of Portsmouth’s Market Square district into the 15-room Hotel Taxter. Jimmy’s Jazz & Blues Club is nearby. The performance will take place at the landmark, which was built in 1905 as a YMCA and has been renovated to include a listening hall with state-of-the-art acoustics.
go inside
The temptation to stay on the shoreline was great, but I could hear the gentle calls of loons. This bird, with its distinctive black and white collar, lives in the clear waters of New Hampshire’s Lake District. We drove to Lake Winnipesaukee, the state’s largest lake with over 250 islands.
To know the majesty of the lake, we visited the castle in the clouds. Located on a headland, overlooking the Ossipee Mountains and Lake Winnipesaukee. Tom Plant, owner of what was once the world’s largest shoe factory, oversaw the completion of the mansion in 1914. Tom Plant named his 6,300 acres Lucknow. Arts and Crafts style architecture is designed to blend into the natural environment. 90% of the furniture is original to the house.
Moving past luxury, we chose simplicity for our next destination.
At its peak in the 1860s, Canterbury Shaker Village, located 24 miles northeast of Concord, was home to about 400 residents. Twenty-five restored Shaker buildings occupy 694 acres of land. Members of the United Society, who believed in the second coming of Christ, were called Shakers because of their religious services, which included vigorous dancing and speaking in tongues. They lived simply. Canterbury’s first building, the Meeting House, was built in 1792. The largest building on the site, a 56-room residence, was completed a year later.
capital concord
With 400 members, the New Hampshire House of Representatives is proud to be the fourth largest governing body in the world, after the U.S. House of Representatives, the British House of Commons, and India’s Sabah. The golden-domed State Capitol in Concord includes a flag hall featuring more than 100 of New Hampshire’s military flags. A statue of New Hampshire native Daniel Webster is also erected on the grounds.
The State Capitol building is nestled among the downtown stores, restaurants, and coffee shops along Main Street. On the morning we visited, a lively crowd gathered at the Concord Farmers Market, located right next to the Capitol.
Revival Kitchen & Bar has outdoor seating and is in keeping with the downtown street scene. The sole with shrimp is exquisite. Hotel Concorde is located in the heart of downtown, just a 5-minute walk from Eagle Square, home to city dwellers and street performers.
Nearby is Pierce Manse, the white, two-story home of Franklin Pierce, the New Hampshire native’s only son to reach the White House. Tours can be taken through rooms with many original furniture. Exhibit panels highlight Pierce’s accomplishments as a U.S. Representative, Senator, and President.
The McAuliffe Shepard Discovery Center in Concord will honor Concord High School teacher Christa McAuliffe and Alan Shepard of Derry, New Hampshire, who were aboard the Space Shuttle Challenger. In 1961, Shepard became the first American to fly in space. And in 1971, he led the Apollo 14 mission to the moon.
A full-size replica of the Mercury Redstone rocket stands outside the center. A Crusader jet, a 1950s supersonic fighter aircraft, greets visitors upon entry. It has a planetarium and numerous interactive exhibits, making it a great attraction for families.
Museums in Manchester
In Manchester, two mansions designed by Frank Lloyd Wright are available for tours organized by the Currier Museum. The red brick Zimmerman House appears to blend into the small hillside. In contrast, Kalil House is a striking structure made of concrete blocks. The Currier Museum of Art has an impressive collection of paintings by American artist Andrew Wyeth, as well as works by Vincent van Gogh and Pablo Picasso. After visiting the museum, we were treated to a sumptuous seafood dinner at the Copper Door Restaurant in Bedford, near Manchester.
The Millyard District is located on the edge of the Merrimack River, which flows north-south through Manchester. There are paved paths and walks along the waterway. The southern portion of the riverwalk leads to Delta Dental Stadium, home of the New Hampshire Fisher Cats, the Double-A Toronto Blue Jays’ baseball affiliate. Behind the left-field wall, guests of the Hilton Garden Inn can watch minor league ball games from their room windows.
Linda Lang and Steve Ahillen are travel writers living in Knoxville, Tennessee.
