“Looking for someone in finance. Trust fund, 6’5″, blue eyes,” go the lyrics to “Man in Finance,” the earworm hit song about bankers that took airwaves by storm earlier this year. , he could have added, “Wear a gilet.”
Sleeveless layers, also known as “finance bro vests” or “city boy gilets,” are gaining traction this month thanks to the industry’s return to TV screens.
In the third season of the espresso-paced drama about young bankers’ successes and setbacks in the business world, Gillet has almost become a character in his own right. Some have the logo of the fictitious investment bank Pierpoint, and are worn by employees over shirts and ties in boardrooms and trading rooms.
“The gilet as a show item has wider implications,” says costume designer Laura Smith, “and it reflects how people belong and approach their own identity in the world of the show.” (It) plays a lot of roles in showing what’s going on.”
Matthew Macfadyen plays Tom Wambsguns in Succession. Photo: HBO/Kobal/Shutterstock
It’s a meaningful look from Succession’s Tom Wambsguns that we’ve seen before, and one that’s ripe for deception. Roman Roy’s character says: What’s packed? What are your hopes and dreams? ”
But despite Industry’s sweeping portrayal of banking, the gilet’s ubiquity in the series is rooted in reality. At Hackett, “popularity has steadily increased, with sales up approximately 10% year-over-year,” said Gianni Colarossi, chief product officer.
Marylebone tailor William Crabtree & Sons has seen a 20% year-on-year increase in sales of its Grasmere gilets since opening its brick-and-mortar store four years ago. Business owner James Priestley said: “It’s hard to say whether the increase in sales is directly due to the show industry, but gilet sales seem to be increasing across the board.” Charles Tyrwhitt reported a jump in sales earlier this year thanks to the gilet, and predicted business would grow 20% next year.
Along with the quarter-zip sweater, the gilet has become synonymous with corporate attire, especially bank employees. Style & Culture writer and editor TJ Sidhu said, “What people really recognize and associate with the Bunker Brothers industry is a very specific garment.” Sometimes padded, sometimes wool, sometimes microfleece, the Patagonia brand is especially popular, and because they are singular garments, they make sense as symbols that people can fall in love with. It’s more visually appealing than a suit or shirt.
“It’s become a bit of a parody now, as it’s become a representation of banking style,” said a former London banking graduate who asked not to be named. In one viral TikTok video by clothing brand Reiss, which has been viewed more than 3 million times, a flash mob pretending to be financial professionals dance to “Man in Finance,” each wearing identical gilets.
Henry Mack (Kit Harington) and Otto Mostyn (Roger Berkeley) in a scene from Industry. Photo: Nick Strasberg/BBC/Bad Wolf Productions/HBO
But for those working in the industry, the graduate said: “We’re not part of the parody. This is what we were wearing before that trend started, and we’ll continue to wear it after the trend starts.”
For him, the appeal is first and foremost that it’s practical, especially on hot commutes. Gilet means “to keep your body warm but not sweat too much.” Moreover, “you can take it off and store it in your bag.”
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Part of its dominance in recent years is that office attire has become more casual after the pandemic. With the increase in working from home, the gilet is one for the requirement to at least raise your navel and be smart during Zoom calls, but at the same time be a little more comfortable to reflect that you are not actually within 10 meters. The answer is clothing. copy machine. Now, even back in the office, the less formal aesthetic of the gilet represents the continued softness of acceptable office attire.
Sidhu said that in industries such as banking, people tend to prefer uniformity of style. For men, “I think it really gives them a sense of belonging,” he added. He likens it to “places where certain clothing items are displayed” such as football terraces or pubs.
It remains to be seen whether the industry and social media spotlight will boost sales of the gilet outside of the Square Mile. Could sleeveless clothing start to gain acclaim in the fashion industry? “I would never say never,” Sidhu said.
“Over the past decade or so, we’ve seen so many trends come and go that we never thought would become this fashionable,” he said, pointing to Crocs. There are many examples of “ugly” clothing somehow becoming part of the zeitgeist.”
Perhaps things might change once more fruity options become available. “I don’t think I’ve ever seen a fellow banker wear patterned clothes or (or) nice juicy colors,” he said.
Perhaps the gilet will be the next item to get a Gen Z twist, as the so-called “co-op core” trend is giving a fresh take on the usual 9-to-5 attire. “If done well, it can turn a banker-bro-esque gilet on its head and create a very stylish effect.”
