I can’t even begin to count the number of lip-enhancing hacks in the wild west of my TikTok algorithm. The “siren lip” hack, the cinnamon oil trick (which is questionable), Mario Dedivanovic’s viral lip lift method…the list goes on. Still, if done correctly, nothing beats a simple overwriting technique. With just a swipe of liner and colored balm, you can make your lips look twice as big without fillers. Just ask Etienne Ortega, the celebrity makeup artist and magician responsible for plump, glossy pouts for Lana Del Rey, Christina Aguilera, Becky G, Kris Jenner and more.
Any tips? Use liner and gloss to balance light and shadow. See Ortega’s step-by-step process (and reference photos I took in real time) below to get the full look without getting too obvious.
How to overline lips: step-by-step tutorial
Before overlining your lips.
1. Condition your lips
In general, healthy, moisturized lips look naturally fuller. Before you even think about picking up a liner, you need to exfoliate and moisturize your delicate skin. For the former, I usually reach for a lip scrub, as physical exfoliation temporarily increases blood circulation and provides a subtle plumping effect. Sometimes I also rub my lips with a clean, dry toothbrush to stimulate blood flow. This is a helpful tip in a pinch.
Don’t forget to apply a moisturizing lip balm. Otherwise, all the extra blood flow will be wasted. I love seeing a lot of this hydrating mask from YSE Beauty, but you can find more of our editors’ favorites here. Let’s just say: Exfoliating without water will cause your lips to dry out.
Let it sit for a while until it gets absorbed, then wipe off any excess product when you’re ready to start applying your makeup. “First, you want the surface of your lips to be smooth, rejuvenated, and hydrated, but you also want to make sure there’s nothing on your lips that will cause the liner to wipe off easily.” Ortega advises.
2. Choose your liner
Now, it’s time for makeup! Of course, to create a natural contour, you’ll need ‘My Lips But Better’ liner. “For natural lips, you should choose a liner that is close to your natural lip color but two shades darker. That way, that deeper shade will give you the look of fuller lips,” says Ortega. I say. I love Ortega’s Soft Contour Lip Liner in the shade Euphoric, but with a list of 16 editor-approved options, you’re sure to find a favorite.
3. Start with Cupid’s bow
Once you have the liner du jour, we recommend starting with the cupid’s bow, which requires the most attention to detail. Draw a line down the center of your upper lip to separate the Cupid’s bow into two parts. “From there, you can start drawing a small heart shape in your cupid’s bow, and take this opportunity to overline your lips in a natural way. That way, you can get the desired pout look.” he added.
4. Outline the bottom
“Once the heart area is complete, you can start underlining again from the center of the lower lip,” explains Ortega. Draw a line down the center of your lower lip, tracing the underside of your natural lip line and going slightly upwards. Going a little over the top is the appropriate word here. Model Georgia May Jagger also suggested placing a small mirror under your lower lip to help you see the line better. (This is a tip she learned from legendary makeup artist Val Garland.)
5. Connect the dots
“Once you have these markers in place, you can start ‘connecting the dots’ by drawing lines across the mouth,” Ortega added. Connect your lower lip line to your upper lip and fill in the corners with liner for an ombré, pouty look. It may look a little thawed in the photo below, but trust the process.
Lips after aligning the top and bottom and filling in the corners.
6. Blend the edges
Next, diffuse the edges so the lines aren’t too rough. “My favorite way to blend liner is with a brush, but you can also use your fingers in a pinch,” says Ortega. Some lip liners come with a brush attachment for this purpose (like Hotliner by Kosas), or you can also get this tapered number from Sephora.
7. Add your colors
Next, pick up a similar shade of lipstick or colored balm and press it into your expertly lined lips. I like to smudge my lipstick to get a “just kissed” effect, but you can also swipe it for a precise effect.
You can also use Ortega’s ombre lip technique. “I like to add a lighter color (almost a nude color) to the top/middle of my lips. That way I get fuller, fuller lips,” he suggests. “From there, use a brush to feather the edges and start blending into the liner.”
8. Polished finish
Finally, finish with gloss. “In some cases, super glossy lips can even enhance that fullness,” adds Ortega. Concentrating on the center of your lips creates the illusion that your lips are fuller, so be sure to apply it in the center of your lips.
Look, there it is! Create a fuller pout in seconds with just three makeup products: liner, lip color, and gloss. Ever since I learned Ortega’s routine, I’ve been following it every day and it hasn’t failed me yet. I’ve been asked many times about lip combos since working on my step-by-step tutorial. Please purchase from below.
Additional tips and tricks
Clean the edges: “I like to clean around the lips with a little concealer on my brush to make sure all lines are clean and natural,” says Ortega. Use a lip plumper: instead of regular gloss, you can: Always apply a small amount of lip plumper to the center of your lips to give your lips more lift. I love Maybelline’s Lifter Plump Lip Plumping Gloss and Polite Society’s Big Mouth Lip Plumping Oil Gloss. Both are quite spicy, but offer noticeable volume. Add more highlighter. “You can always highlight your cupid’s bow with an ethereal glow balm to emphasize the natural high position of your lips,” Ortega added.
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ortega
soft contour lip liner
I love the mauve brown Euphoric. This is the one used in the photo above!
Kosas Hotliner also captures my heart. I especially like the included lip brush as it makes blending easy.
sephora collection
Pro lip brush #85
You can blend it using your fingers (which I often do!), but this lip brush from Sephora definitely comes in handy.
Edem
Le Chouchou Exfoliating + Softening Peptide Lip Balm
I won’t rest until everyone adds this Eadem lip tint to their collection. I love the shade Fig Sauce, and it’s the one I’m wearing in the reference photo.
ortega
agave glow color stick
Ortega loves layering bright lip color over dark liner to create a plump ombre effect. His unique formula is particularly soft and creamy, making it easy to blend.
ortega
liquid icon hyper gloss
Applying gloss can make a big difference in plumping up your lips. Ortega’s clear formula is, no lie, one of the best I’ve tried. It is moisturizing, lightweight, and non-sticky. In fact, I think it’s more of a lip oil than a gloss. It’s moisturizing power.
Saie
Glossybounce High Shine Hydrating Lip Gloss Oil
If you’re looking for a colored gloss/oil hybrid, this one from Saie also has a non-sticky finish. When you wear this, you can hardly tell that you’re wearing lip oil. This is the mark of a very good lip oil.
I’m hopping on this lip mask like crazy right now. I use it as an overnight treatment, to prep and moisturize my lips before makeup, and even as a gloss to finish off my lip look. This glow-enhancing balm is a true multitasker.
Maybelline
Lifter Plump Lip Plumping Gloss in Hot Chili
This gloss isn’t for the faint of heart (spicy, folks), but it did help double the size of my lips.
polite society
OG Big Mouth Lip Plumping Oil Gloss
I also love this tingly plumper, especially the petal pink shade. It is the most gorgeous and delicate shade.
ortega
ether glow balm
Apply Ortega’s pearly highlighter to your cupid’s bow to create the illusion of added volume. The refreshing formula will also look very impressive on your collarbones.
dior
backstage glow face palette
This highlighting palette is really beautiful. Its pearly pink color makes you want to apply it to the center of your lips for added sparkle and shine.
