It’s been two years since Hermès Beauty hired Greek makeup artist Gregoris Pilpilis as its creative director. Beauty is the house’s 16th and youngest métier, having made its debut two years ago in March 2020 (although it has been making perfume since 1951, makeup and skincare are entirely new categories for the French house). Ta).
“Hermès Beauty is part of who we are. A home where everything comes from creation, driven by artisans who seek to add elegance to today’s men and women, as well as the integrity and authenticity that we represent.” said CEO Axel Dumas. To celebrate its first launch, the range of 24 matte and satin lipsticks scented with Christine Nagel fragrances was everything you’d expect from Hermès beauty products and more.
A new chapter in the Tray d’Hermès collection for the eyes of Hermès beauty
(Image provided by Hermes)
It was clear from the beginning that the beauty line would be an expansive celebration of craft and color. From the Pierre Hardi-designed refillable tube to the bullet itself, the lipstick utilizes 75,000 colors of silk and 900 colors of leather from the house archives. And each subsequent product category, from lip oil to nail polish, has demonstrated this in a way that only Hermès can.
The latest addition to the Trey d’Hermès Eye Collection is perhaps the most playful offering to date. 40 eye and lip pencils (and liquid liner) recreate the nostalgic feeling of receiving new stationery at the beginning of your life. School year. Here, Pyrpylis shares the story of her wallpaper* design process.
Hermes Beauty’s “Tray d’Hermes” eyeliner and lipliner
Hermes Beauty “Tray d’Hermes” Eye & Lip Pencil
Wallpaper*: How did the Trait d’Hermès eyeliner and lipliner concept originate?
Gregoris Pilpilis: Last year (2023) we presented our first eye collection with Le Regarde. In this chapter, we explained the eye shadow “Les Ombres d’Hermes” and the mascara “Les Treys d’Hermes.” The new eyeliner and lipliner are the second part and complete the look of the eyes. Their designs are organic to the Hermès ethos and are inspired by the tools we use to create.
Gregoris Pilpilis demonstrates Hermès Beauty’s Trait d’Hermès eye pencil
(Image provided by Hermes)
W*: Yes, this collection is reminiscent of new stationery, but how did you communicate this in a way that is appropriate for Hermès?
GP: I vividly remember being one of those kids who loved stationery and loved having a huge palette of colors in front of me. It gave me this sense of freedom. This is what I wanted to convey with the eyeliner and lipliner. Hermès sees “design” as a means to tell a story. Just as the Hermès horse is a means of transportation, Hermès designs can transport your heart.
I sat down with Pierre Hardy and told him my ideas. He immediately began drawing designs on paper. The pencils are made from lacquered sustainable wood. He wanted to take inspiration from the show’s jumping poles and tie everything to the house cord. And eyeliner pens are like fountain pens, with refillable cartridges. A pencil sharpener is also included. It’s a beautiful object in itself, but from a practical point of view, it has four strong magnets inside, so pencil shavings won’t fall out during your travels.
Just as the Hermès horse is a means of transportation, Hermès designs can transport your heart.
Gregory Pilpilis
W*: Can you talk about the formulation and usage of the liner?
GP: I like practical makeup that can be used by everyone in the world: friends, mothers, Hermès customers. So I wanted to create a pencil that combines the features of kohl and classic eyeliner. It has a very soft texture but is not sticky. It’s hard enough to define the eyes, but soft enough to melt when it touches your skin. It can be worn near the water and provides pure color.
There is a small smudge on one end to help diffuse the color, but if you want to keep the lines precise, this is also possible. We have enhanced our brush collection with the new design “L’Estompeur de Précision”. The combination of natural and synthetic hair allows you to blend the liner in a very controlled way.
Hermes Beauty “Tray d’Hermes” Eye Pencil Set of 12
(Image provided by Hermes)
W*: How did you arrive at the final color palette included in the collection?
GP: We had to do a lot of editing. So, we have 24 eye pencils and 16 lip pencils, which are our lucky numbers. With lip liner, it was a little difficult at first. My goal was to have one for each lipstick so it wouldn’t affect the color of the lipstick. Reds include blue reds and warm yellowish reds. For example, one of our most famous lipsticks is ‘Rouge Blue’ and ‘Rouge Ash’. It also comes in rose and orange shades. However, we have also introduced a beautiful beige color in a way that it can be worn on its own, without pairing with lipstick, just to define and restructure the lips, if desired.
For me in 2024, makeup has become more fun and playful than ever before. And this new chapter of “Trait d’Hermès” is an invitation to explore this to the fullest.
Gregory Pilpilis
Trey d’Hermès eye pencil in the shade Jaune Impérial
(Image credit: Provided by Hermès)
W*: And what about eyeliner?
GP: It was important to me that there were classic colors that everyone could live with, such as a beautiful strong black, different browns, metallic browns and bronzes, but it was also important to bring Hermès’ unique approach to color. . At the same time, we also have “Jaune Imperial,” a mustard yellow that is the same shade as my favorite nail polish, and “Bleuet,” a bright baby blue that resembles the Greek sky. . Blanc Sanguine is a terracotta orange that gives a sublime impression when applied to green or blue eyes.
For me in 2024, makeup has become more fun and playful than ever before. And this new chapter of “Trait d’Hermès” is an invitation to explore this to the fullest.
hermes.com
A version of this article appears in the November 2024 issue of Wallpaper*, available in print starting October 10 on newsstands, in the Apple iOS Wallpaper* app, and to Apple News+ subscribers. Subscribe to wallpaper* now
