DEATH VALLEY, Calif. — You land in Las Vegas and head west for two hours through the desert abyss and among the towering Spring Mountains. Cell phone service is sparse at best, but that’s not a problem. The spectacular topography of the Nevada-California border commands attention like no other.
The same goes for the destination’s views, which are more than 200 feet above sea level and beneath mountains over 8,000 feet in height. It’s something to behold. Not only does this oasis feature stunning views, it also has a great resort and has been named one of Golf Digest’s 50 toughest courses. That’s Furnace Creek. Next to the first tee is a sign carved into the rock that reads “214 feet above sea level.” The lowest golf course on earth. Death Valley, California
The par-4 first hole is emblematic of the course itself. The scorecard says this gentle dogleg to the right is 410 yards from the back tees, but it plays much longer than that. Because the course is close to the Earth’s core, gravity is stronger and golf balls lose about 3% of their distance. The increased gravity can also make the flight pattern unstable, which helps explain why this course is so difficult.
Tamarisks and palm trees line the fairways, as does wire-covered Bermuda grass, but mountains in the distance guide you. There are no real problems with this opener, other than a bad lie due to an erroneous blast into Bermuda grass. This type of turf is always hit or miss, with the ball sometimes resting on the turf as if it were on a tee, or sinking just below the turf and wondering, “Is this the U.S. Open?” It may happen.
The next 17 holes vary in difficulty apart from the aforementioned Gravity and Bermuda grass. The second par 3 has a large pond to the left, and many consider this hole to be a feature of the course. My favorite par 5 is No. 5, a long dogleg to the right that runs along the opposite side of the property with a desert landscape. Its green is the size of a postage stamp and resembles the 8th hole at Royal Troon. The 6th par 4 features a blind tee shot that goes over the cat’s tail in the wind. These types of shots can be unpleasant for any player.
Second, the par 5 10th is over 600 yards, not the listed 576 yards. The tee shot on No. 11 is a difficult drive like any other, with trees closing in on either side, giving you a narrow window to find the fairway. The back nine has some short, easy-scoring holes, but the unpredictable ball flight makes it more complicated than it looks. He pitches to the 220-yard par-3 14th and suddenly finds himself struggling to save par on the back nine.
The closing hole, on the other hand, is a gem. The 18th par 4, a gentle dogleg to the left that runs parallel to the opener, is a fierce hole with a green that slopes sharply from the back to the front. It’s the most difficult green on the course and often results in the nasty three-putt that ends your round.
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But once you get to the first green, you’ll realize that these putting surfaces don’t have super fast speeds. However, that’s by design. It’s so hot in Death Valley, with temperatures rising above 115 degrees Fahrenheit every day, that Furnace Creek’s grounds staff can’t put down the mower blades and roll the greens any faster. When the green speed exceeds 10 on the stimpmeter, the sun, heat, and dry weather will cause the putting surface to burn and crisp. Of course, then no one would be able to play.
You’re probably wondering how a golf course could be in the middle of Death Valley, widely known as the hottest place on Earth. Especially in California, where a water crisis has plagued the state for years?
In this part of Death Valley, there is a freshwater spring beneath the golf course and its attached oasis resort. Therefore, even if the surrounding landscape is scorching hot, the courses and resorts have all the necessary water and irrigation facilities.
However, there are plenty of other activities to do in this wonderful location besides golf.
Death Valley National Park has amazing attractions, including Badwater Basin, 82 feet above sea level. Traversing around the park is fascinating in itself, as is the drive from Las Vegas. Another must-see is Dante’s Point, located approximately 6,000 feet above sea level. This is the perfect place to watch the sun or moon rise over the mountains. Or you can take in the views of Death Valley below. There are countless places to hike and sightsee in the surrounding area, but a word to the wise is to go early in the morning before the heat of the day gets too intense.
The same idea applies to the golf course, where the pro shop closes daily around 2 p.m. Around this time, the sprinklers on the course will also turn on. The store opens at 6 a.m. daily. We would like to play early in the morning when the temperature is high and there is no wind. This time of day can also create some breathtaking visuals as you watch the sun rise and illuminate the landscape. It makes you wonder, “Am I still on Earth?”
Believe it or not, you are.
Of course, the place to stay is also special. Two parts of the resort, the Death Valley Ranch and Inn, offer rooms for groups of all sizes. The ranch is adjacent to the golf course below, and the inn is perched on a half-mile hill overlooking the valley. Each spot has an on-site pool, the perfect place to cool off and refresh. Both locations have great restaurants and bars.
So if you’re a golfer planning a trip to Las Vegas, a popular destination for millions of reasons, you should strongly consider traveling west across the California border. Stay a night or two. Play two rounds of golf, sometimes three. You won’t be disappointed, in fact you’ll be delighted. I know you were nervous about going to Death Valley. I didn’t know what was going to happen. But when we arrived, we were amazed that such a place existed in one of the most remote yet picturesque places on earth. And now I can proudly say, yes, I played the worst course on the planet. This is a fact you can brag about to your friends and family alike. You can do that too by traveling. You won’t regret it.
Jack Mirko is a golf staff writer for SB Nation’s Playing Through. Be sure to check it out @_PlayingThrough Cover more golf. You can follow him on Twitter @jack_milko In the same way.
