Chevrolet’s sixth-generation Corvette has featured a number of improvements over its C5 predecessor, but there’s always been one glaring area that seems ripe for failure. It’s a door handle. More specifically, their absence.
With the goal of modernizing the car’s appearance, the Corvette design team took a minimalist approach with the redesign for the 2005 model, replacing the physical steering wheel with hidden pressure pads and electronic door actuators. While it was a stylish improvement, it may have gone too far.
It’s been 20 years since this nifty feature was introduced, and unfortunately, my instincts were correct. After 16 years and 50,000 miles, the driver’s side door latch actuator on my 2008 Corvette has bitten the dust, so I’m wondering which parts are broken, what needs to be replaced, and what to do about it. I looked on the internet to see if I needed any tools. work. See how I performed this increasingly common repair in my home garage.
Workaround
Before we get into the diagnostics, we should mention that GM has added door latches and physical failsafes that allow entry and exit in the event of a power outage.
On each side of the car, black plastic levers with red graphics are placed on the floor just in front of the seats and next to each door sill. Pulling up on the front of this lever and pulling it back toward the seat opens the door manually, allowing a decidedly non-Dukes of Hazard escape route.
Brett Lilones
To get into the car, open the rear hatch and look into the cargo compartment on the driver’s side. A black pull cord with white graphics is tucked in just above the wheel arches. If you pull it, the driver’s door will open.
Brett Lilones
diagnosis
Now that you know how to work around the problem, you can evaluate what the problem actually is. This door system has two common failure points: the pressure pad and the door latch actuator.
Activating the pressure pad (or interior door button) initiates two actions. First, you need to tell the window motor to lower the side glass through the roof’s weatherstripping channel. Then you need to send a signal to the door latch actuator to open the door.
Brett Lilones
If pressing the pressure pad or door button does not perform these actions, it is an indication that the problem is likely in that area and requires further investigation.
But in my case, something happened when I pressed either button. The glass fell off the index, but the door was not unlatched. This made me think there might be a problem with the actuator. I verified this by leaving both doors open, manually resetting the latch mechanisms on each side of the car, and pressing the button on each door.
On the passenger side, which is working fine, when I activated the pressure pad, I immediately heard a short click and it released the latch. When I did the same thing on the driver’s side, there was no more noise or movement. Now I know the culprit.
Sourcing replacement items
Unfortunately, repairing door latch actuators is beyond the skill level of most home mechanics, myself included. They often need to be replaced and there are several categories to choose from.
Cheaper Alternatives: These parts are new and available for less than $100 on Amazon, eBay, and other websites. Some of these include short warranties, but online reviews indicate that many of these parts are less reliable than OEM actuators at registering inputs.
OEM Replacement: Official General Motors replacement door latch actuators appear to still be in production for the C6. However, that pedigree comes at a price, as these approved alternatives can cost upwards of $250.
Used/Refurbished Parts: This category has the most variation in price, but offers the most options. On the lower end of the spectrum are take-offs from recovery vehicles of varying mileage. Most are sold as “tested and working” for around $50 to $100. On the high end are remanufactured OEM actuators. These units typically range from $150 to $200 and include a mechanical “re-refresh” feature. Some offer lifetime warranties if you mail your old actuator core to the seller.
I ended up choosing a refurbished unit with a lifetime warranty (hopefully I wouldn’t have to test it), but the repair itself should be about the same no matter which option you choose.
repair
Before you rush out to the garage to attempt this repair, it’s worth making sure you have all the tools you need to do the job right the first time.
Brett Lilones
Here’s what you need:
T30 Torx bit T10 Torx bit Small flathead screwdriver Various plastic trim removal tools Masking tape (optional)
The first step, depending on which side you are working on, is to move the driver or passenger seat forward and tilt the seat out of the way of the repair. Then, like any other work involving the vehicle’s electrical components, you will need to disconnect the negative terminal of the battery to reduce the risk of a 12-volt accident.
Next, carefully remove part of the main trim section of the door sill. It’s held in place by multiple clips, but I found that I only needed to remove two of them to get enough clearance to proceed. Tape the edge of the door sill to minimize the chance of damaging the paint.
Brett Lilones Brett Lilones
Starting at the back edge, place the plastic trim removal tool on either side of the first clip (see image below) and pull straight up with even pressure to remove it. Do not twist or pry towards the interior of the vehicle as this may cause the plastic to crack.
Clip #1 Brett Lilones
Once you remove the first clip, move towards the center and remove the second clip in the same way.
Clip #2 Brett Lilones
This should give you enough space to remove the plastic trim above the B-pillar. Note the image above for the placement of the two clips and the fragile post. Insert the trim tool into the gap near the bottom of the two clips. This should give you enough space to hold your hand.
Brett Lilones
Again, remember to use the same force. However, this time add it straight inward towards the center of the car. Be careful not to twist this part toward the front or rear of the car, as plastic standoffs have a tendency to snap if done incorrectly. (For this part, I found it easier to actually climb into the center console area and pry it open).
Removing this last trim should expose the adhesive sound-deadening sheet on the inside of the B-pillar. Carefully peel back to access the door latch actuator.
Brett Lilones Brett Lilones
Go around the outside of the car and use a T30 bit to remove the two Torx fasteners that secure the actuator to the car body.
Brett Lilones
With the clasp removed and carefully set aside, reach inside and pull out the actuator mechanism.
Brett Lilones
Use a small flathead screwdriver to pry the maroon paperclip apart. This will unlock the electrical connector and allow you to disconnect it. Two cables protrude from the sides (these connect to the front and rear manual release levers) and are held in place by a plastic cover. Remove the two Torx fasteners using a T10 bit and set aside for reassembly.
Brett Lilones GM Parts Direct
Remove the cover and disconnect each cable end from its respective lever attachment point. Please note that depending on the actuator you ordered, you may need to transfer the small L-shaped lever assembly on the bottom section of the old unit to the new door actuator (see photo above).
Testing and reassembly will now begin. Attach the manual release cable to the lever assembly, then reattach the cover and T10 fasteners. Manually reset the new door latch using a small screwdriver and test each release lever to ensure it functions as intended.
Then reattach the electrical connections and lock them in place with the maroon tabs. Reattach the actuator to its home in the B-pillar using T30 fasteners.
To test that everything is working properly, reconnect the battery and manually reset the door latch. This will cause the window to flip upwards into the “door closed” position (do not close the door at this point). When you press the pressure pad on the door, if everything is working properly, the window will lower and the latch will open with a pleasant click.
Brett Lilones
Test the new latch by opening and closing the door a few times, making sure to use both the outside pressure pad and the inside button. Once you’re sure everything is working properly, put the car back together. Finish everything off by reapplying the sound deadening material to the B-pillar and carefully installing the trim pieces in reverse order. Your Corvette’s doors are now working. I hope the passenger side lasts a little longer.
